Collector's Guide: Three Hundred Years of Earrings

Photo of an open book displaying antique earrings

cropped image of an antique painting of a women wearing an earring

Collector's Guide

Three hundred years of earrings

Presenting a digital collector's guide showcasing earrings. While by no means comprehensive, this overview will touch on the many styles and motifs popular throughout the last three centuries.⁠

*Bell & Bird Diamond Earrings

Black and white image of the diamond earrings

18th Century Topaz

During this time, Portugal controlled Brazil, where topaz was first discovered in the Ouro Preto in 1730. This discovery made Brazil the world's most significant source of topaz. Europeans particularly sought after the golden-orange and pink hues of Imperial Topaz, which was highly prized in aristocratic jewelry. Before the Brazilian discovery, topaz was primarily sourced from Saxony (modern Germany) and Russia. However, the material was found in smaller quantities and more common colors.

Antique Map of Portugal and the south American colonies.

View of antique topaz earrings in our jewelry cases.

18th Century Precious Topaz Earrings and Pendant.

18th century pendeloque earrings with precious topaz and diamonds. Style and form typical of the Iberian Peninsula. Original form with wig hooks. Circa 1760. Portuguese in origin

To view

Girandole Earrings ~ Circa 1720-1780

This style emerged mid-17th century and remained popular throughout the 18th century, particularly from the 1720s to the 1780s. The Girandole design was most favored during the Baroque and Rococo periods, especially among European aristocratic women. The design features three dangling pear-shaped ornaments suspended from a central bow motif. These designs were produced throughout Europe, using all manner of gemstones. When the fashion waned, the earrings were often disassembled, and the parts repurposed as pendants and simplified earrings.

*Painting of Princess Isabella Of Bourbon-Parma (1741-1763)

A painting of a women wearing antique Girandole Earrings

18th century rose cut diamond girandole earrings. Dutch in origin, in silver on gold.Typical to the period, back-to-front fittings.England. Circa 1760.

Georgian era ruby and diamond girandole earrings. Rose-cut diamonds are set into the central element in silver, while the ruby stones are set in 18k gold. Continental Europe, circa 1760.

Sold antique girandole pieces from our archives

18th Century Iberian Topaz Demi Parure. ~ From our archives | SOLD

A girandole of precious stones belonging to J. B. F., 1723. Image Source NYPL Catalog.

Pendeloque Earrings ~ Circa 1750-1790

The pendeloque shape came into fashion because its length counterbalanced the extreme height of hairstyles of the time. The elaborate padded wigs were highly impractical and must have been terribly uncomfortable, and making it difficult to fit into a coach. Satirists of the time showed servants employed to hold up the weight of the hair or attend to hair from ladders. The majority of pendeloque earrings were set with diamonds, but few have survived since the settings were melted down and the stones reset as fashion changed. Most remaining examples are set with colorless pastes, white topaz, or rock crystal, as their materials did not constitute destruction.

*Maria Amalia overlooking the Neapolitan crown, by Giuseppe Bonito, c. 1745.

Georgian era foiled rose cut diamond pendeloque bow-drop earrings closed set in silver. Circa 180. Available for purchase.

Poissarde Earrings ~ Circa 1710-1810

The classic Poissarde is a hoop earring differentiated by an elongated oval loop, often with an 'S' curve to balance weight and hang straight. This style was associated with the fishermen's wives of Paris, who played a significant role during the French Revolution. We have seen examples expertly set with high-quality diamonds and more provincial designs in simple, lightweight gold wire and semi-precious or paste stones.

pOISSARD EARRINGS

A rare example of a fine Georgian era poissarde earring. Pink topaz stones are enhanced with foil in 18k gold. The ear wires go from back to front, typical of 18th-century earrings. England. Circa 1800. Front view.

Georgian Era Pink Topaz Poissarde hoop Earrings

$4,550.00

A rare example of an 18th Century era gold poissarde earring. They are accented with heart charms and chain details. The ear wires go from back to front, typical of 18th-century earrings. Germany. Circa 1800. Side view.

18th Century Era Gold Poissarde Earrings

$5,200.00

19th Century Table Cut Diamond Hoop Earrings

$12,500.00

18th Century era gold poissarde earrings with star details. The earwires go from back to front, typical of 18th century earrings. Italy. Circa 1800. Side view.

18th Century Era Gold Poissarde Hoop Earrings

$3,450.00

Poissardes Earrings, French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century, by Henri Vever.

Women's March on Versaille, 1789

GEORGIAN ERA TORPEDO EARRINGS ~ CIRCA 1830-1840

Earrings reaching almost the shoulders became extremely popular in the 1830s, prompted by changes in dress and hairstyles. The courtiers of the time wore wide bell-shaped skirts, narrow waists, and leg-of-mutton sleeves, which expanded sideways, giving the silhouette a marked triangular shape—the exaggerated horizontal expansion needed to be counterbalanced by the long drop earrings. We encounter examples of delicate gold work and elongated torpedo-shaped gemstones.

*Leg-of-mutton sleeves in painting of Mrs. Winfield Scott by Asher Brown Durand in 1831.

Early 19th Century gold torpedo shaped earrings. Creating cannetille work is a time-intensive process that involves stretching gold into thin threads and coiling the threads into elaborate and intricate designs. English in origin. Circa 1820.

Intricate cannetille work in 15k gold. The delicate gold work creates a ‘giardinetti’ floral motif and stars on the reverse. The torpedo drop was a popular shape in the early 19th century. Light in weight. English in origin. Circa 1830.

Berlin Iron Jewelry ~ Circa 1790-1810

This rare category of jewel was a result of the wartime climates in Europe. The enduring appeal is in the contrast of the hard and dark material executed in airy light forms as intricate as lace. Black lacquered cast iron jewelry was first developed in Prussia. By 1804 its manufacture flourished in Berlin. However, it was not until the Napoleonic wars it became the symbol of Prussian patriotism and resistance to Napoleon. In 1812, the ousted Prussian government asked its wealthy to contribute their precious jewelry to their country, and in exchange, they received iron jewels inscribed ‘ Gold gab ich für Eisen”, I gave gold for iron. While the jewels were made in great quantities at the time, they were not cherished like gold, and gemstone jewels were largely lost to rust. A fine example in good condition is a rare find.

Early Berlin iron necklace with eight mirrored plaques of classical figures. German in origin. Circa 1805.

Berlin iron torpedo earrings. Gothic pattern in elongated oversized pendeloque shapes. German in origin. Circa 1820. Front view.

Berlin Iron torpedo drop earrings. Gothic pattern in elongated oversized pendeloque shapes. German in origin. Circa 1820.

Berlin iron earrings in a rare elongated torpedo drop form. The popularity of iron and steel jewelry was a result of wartime political and social climates. Although its unique style had an enduring appeal and was worn as mourning jewelry well into the 19th century. The earrings have the wonderful juxtaposition of a hard dark iron material in the soft and light form of lace. Circa 1820.

Victorian blue paste parure set next to a fish

Victorian era blue paste parure set. A pair of bracelet, a Maltese cross pendant, torpedo drop earrings and a riviére necklace. English in origin. Circa 1880. ~ From our archives | SOLD

Paste 18th - 19th century

Paste stones are made from highly refractive leaded glass, but paste jewels are not considered counterfeit jewelry. It was made to achieve certain decorative effects which were rarely realized with diamonds and other precious stones. In the absence of the high cost of materials, the jeweler's skills working with these materials developed and extended much further than those of diamond workers. Resulting in incredible setting patterns and techniques. It is said that at its peak of popularity, there were 300 jewelers specializing in paste jewels in Paris alone. At its best, antique paste is to be compared with the finest jewelry for artistry and craftsmanship.

Georgian era 18th century girandole white paste earrings, in silver topped gold settings. English in origin. Circa 1770. ~ From our archives | SOLD

Rare and fine Georgian era paste tear drop day and night earrings, in silver topped gold. Featured on page 94, of the book “Georgian Jewelry” by Ginny Reddington Dawes and Olivia Collings. English in origin. Circa 1790. ~ From our archives | SOLD

Photo of a fruit still life with a tea cup and an 18th century white paste necklace

Georgian era 19th Century white paste rivière necklace. Exceptional quality. English in origin. Circa 1820. ~ From our archives | SOLD

Victorian Era Earrings ~ Circa 1840-1900

At the beginning of the period women favored long, dangling earrings adorned with intricate nature-inspired designs. Chandelier earrings featuring gemstones like topaz, amethyst, and turquoise were especially popular. These earrings complemented elaborate hairstyles, which were typically styled in curls or braids.

During the mid-Victorian era (1860–1880), jewelry trends shifted following the death of Prince Albert in 1861. Smaller earrings became fashionable, often made from jet, onyx, or dark enamel as symbols of mourning. Gold earrings with sentimental motifs were also common. Hairstyles became more subdued, with low buns and simpler updos, influencing the preference for more modest earring styles.

By the late Victorian era (1880–1901), earrings grew smaller and lighter, as high-collared dresses and elaborate hats reduced the visibility of large jewelry. Stud earrings and delicate drop designs featuring diamonds, pearls, and enamel became popular. The introduction of screw-back earrings in the 1890s allowed women without pierced ears to wear earrings. Throughout the Victorian period, earrings remained an essential accessory, reflecting a woman’s social status, fashion trends, and even emotional expressions such as love and mourning.

19th century female portrait oil on canvas

Portrait Painting of a Baroness, Singed JRP 1872

These earrings have an estimated nine carats in total weight. 4 cushion shaped, old mine cut diamonds are set in 14k gold and silver.  The settings are arranged to allow a day-to-night function. The two smaller stones can be worn alone or with the larger drops. The smaller stones, weigh approx. 3 carats together. The two larger stones are certified by a French laboratory to be 2.87 carats, L color, and VS1 clarity and 2.96 carats, K color, VS1 clarity. European and French makers marks. Front view.

Antique old mine cut diamond drop earrings. These earrings have an estimated 9 carats in total weight. European makers marks as well as French import marks. Circa 1900.

19th century Grand Tour earrings. Classical Roman motifs with RO-MA depicted on the earring tops. Bright 15k gold. Found in London. Italian in origin. Circa 1870.

Silent Film Star, Lily Damita, Circa 1920s

Art Deco Earrings ~ Circa 1920-1930

Earring designs reflected the bold, geometric, and luxurious aesthetic of the time. Inspired by modernism industrial design, Art Deco earrings feature clean lines, symmetry, and contrasting colors. Geometric shapes were a defining characteristic, with earrings showcasing angular patterns, reflecting the machine age and architectural elements like skyscrapers. Earrings during this era were often long and dangling, complementing the short bob hairstyles of the flapper era.

Art Deco Diamond Drop Earrings. A mixture of old mine cut and old European cut diamonds are set in intricate platinum settings. The stones are estimated to weigh approximately 9 carats in total weight. The high-quality stones are estimated to range from F to G in color and VS to SI in quality. America, circa 1920. On a model.

Art Deco platinum and diamond pendant earrings. America, circa 1920. ~ From our archives | SOLD

Antique fancy yellow diamond earrings. A total of approximately 14 carats of diamonds. American in origin. Circa 1925.

Bell & Bird Designs

We are one of the last remaining workshops to fabricate our jewelry without the use of casting or computer design. The process used to manufacture a jewel contributes significantly to its unique feel and look.

Antique jewelry is highly regarded for its craftsmanship – what often separates it from modern jewelry is the process used to create it. We follow these same steps to make our jewels, giving them the same feel as antiques with an updated look.

Bell & Bird diamond drop earrings, with upside down Princess, Asscher and Single cuts diamond, set in our custom "old" gold. 2018. ~ From our archives | SOLD

Bell & Bird cutaway diamond earrings. Hand fabricated in silver topped 18k "old" gold settings. Inspired by 18th and 19th century cutaway style jewelry. 2014 - 2025

Bell & Bird diamond starburst earrings. Inspired by the 19th century celestial jewels, our modern starburst earrings have over 2.4 carats in combined weight in the two principal diamonds. There are 160 additional single-cut diamonds set in oxidized 18k gold. Finished with handmade hinged backs of our own design. 2021. ~ From our archives | SOLD